So since my last blog I have already progressed further, but in this blog I wanted to quickly write about the tongue and groove back, and the front of the chest.
I am not going to go into detail on the measurements, since these may vary depending on the chest size build. First thou, I flattened, jointed and cut the back pieces to length( 3/4″ thick back, same with the front lips and false front). Keep in mind the tongue and groove joint to make sure this adds to the final measurement of the back. I have done this before where I cut pieces to final measurement and didn’t take into consideration the 1/4″ tongue to go in the groove. I’m sure most of us have done this at one point or another.The back on the lower auxiliary cabinet is 3/4″ proud of the top so that it hides were the upper tool cabinet battens are. It keeps the upper cabinet in place with battens that are screwed or nailed on the bottom of the upper chest. this is also the case for the upper front lip.( picture below)
Once I had all the back boards for the upper and lower cabinet tongue and grooved I went ahead and added some decorative beading on the inside like most of these dutch tool chest have that i have seen. ( see picture below). I used the Lie-Nielsen beading tool and it was the right tool for the job. At least for me it worked out quite well since that’s the only beading tool I have in the moment.
Next I made sure all boards are flush with the sides so that there is almost no clean up to do after nailing. Now that all the boards were dry-fitted, I proceeded to nail the backs on. I used 50mm(2″) Diamond-Head Forged Nails from Clouterie Rivierre for the front and the back. Any nails would do but I decided I would go with these since they look great. Since these nails split the wood easily if the location is not pre-drilled, I used a tapered drill bit I had laying around which made the job easy and not so stressful. Of course I made some tests before to ensure no splitting when I nail the final boards.
I had great success with no splitting on any nail, I guess I called that lucky since that’s not always the case. I also added some casters to the bottom and the chest handles got installed two at the same time for dry-fitting purpose before painting. These can be installed anyway you want since casters and hardware vary. I used 1/4″ bolts for the casters.
Last I added the fall front which is pretty simple. When I made the back I made two extra boards for the two false front. So since the boards were already cut to size in length and planed I just had to joint them to fit in between. I used the Veritas Rabbet plane to add a 1/8″ deep by 3/4″ wide rabbet to the false fronts. Then I added Curly maple battens that protrude 5/8 to 3/4″ on the bottom of the fall front. Depending on how far the distance is inside from the top of the bottom of the chest to the top of the nailed on bottom lip will determine how far the battens protrude. Then I added the slotted key lock pieces centered on the top of the fall front .( Below are some of the progress pictures)